|   |  | Water Leaks? On a
Sandpiper? Sandpiper's
are designed, and are, built to be water tight and dry! As
proof, even the first few boats ever made in Canada that are still being sailed
today are dry inside. Water problems develop over the years due to; abuse, lack
of maintenance, improper storage, and even winter storage which creates ice
build ups combined with melting snow. Water can also get in from many sources
and the following checklist can be used to help one determine and correct a
problem within a few minutes. A quick check can even prevent a soggy mattress. Another
factor is that "Sandpiper Sailboats are great to learn on and are a smaller
sized boat" this tends to create over the years multiple owners for each
boat. After the skill of sailoring is developed, the more serious sailors will
move on from the trailer-sailor or day-sailor modes into the racing mode or cruising
mode and upgrade to larger sailboat. Overall most Skippers maintain their boats
very well for the resale value but others often in their hurry to upgrade create
a lack of maintenance that can create water leaks. Water Test Hint: To find 90% of most problems. 
  To test and find some common water leakage do it when the
  boat is out of the water and on a trailer. By using a garden hose, spray
  heavily, and even flood, all around the boat area by area. Have someone sit
  inside the boat to observe and mark the areas that if leaked with a pencil
  that can be erased later. Topside
Areas Checklist:
 
  |  | Anchor Locker: Ensure the
    drain hole is clear and is located at the lowest spot at the bow. This small
    hole is drilled thru the hull and exits the front of the boat near eye-bolt
    for the trailer winch. If the locker does not drain it can leak back inside
    the boat. The entire locker (all sides and bottom) should be water tight
    except for the open drain hole. Some helpful person may have even drilled a
    drain hole in the hatch cover gulley to drain water into the anchor locker.
    (Do you really want your anchor lines always wet, and anchors rusty all the
    time?) |  |  | Forward Hatch:
    Check the seal between the hatch cover and cabin top but only lightly 
    tightening the hatch securing screws. With the hatch closed ensure the water
    proofing tape (sticky on one side) creates a seal all the way around. You
    make have to double up as it may not be equally flat on all sides. |  |  | Head Cover: The toilet pump out cover seal. |  |  | Windows: Check
    the seal between the Plexiglas and the hull also check the tightness of
    the  screws. Some boats may have used a
    sealing tape or some a small continuous bead of waterproofing. |  |  | Shroud Chain Eyes -
    Side Stays: Check around the
    bolts. |  |  | Wooden Handrails: Check around
    the screws. |  |  | Sliding Hatch Cover and Locking
    Boards: Check around the screws, does it fully close, do the two removable
    boards close the entry way? |  |  | Tabernacle / Mast foot plate: Check around the bolts. |  |  | Docking Cleats (4): Check around the bolts. |  |  | Stanchions/Pulpit Tubing Supports: Check all of the
    screws for the sides, stern, and bow. |  |  | Genona/Jib Jam Cleats: Check around the bolts. |  |  | Genona Sliding Tracks:Check around the bolts. |  |  | Spinnaker Sheet Blocks: Check around the bolts. |  |  | Bow Plate: Check around the screws. |  |  | Mainsheet Traveller: Check around the screws/bolts. |  
Inside
Cabin
Areas Checklist:
 
  |  | Use the Topside Areas Checklist:
    above for general water leakage. |  |  | Cabin storage
    lockers (4): Check each one for water. Any water collected in the
    forward area ahead of the head (toilet) area can leak into the lockers. Some
    folks have installed forward plugs to drain. (Check water trapped under
    cockpit floor). |  |  | Head: Is the pump out hose still connected (has hose
    clamp rusted)? |  |  | Sliding Hatch Cover:
    Did you remember to close it fully last time used? |  |  | Cockpit: Check around the walls, sides, or floor of
    the cockpit. |  |  | Floor: Is it raised (water freezing under floor) or
    feel soft and spongy? |  
 Cockpit
and Stern Stowage Areas
Checklist:
 
  |  | Stern Stowage Cover:
    Is it on tight? |  |  | Stern Stowage
    Hull Thru Drains: Ensure both are clean and free flowing. Leaves or tree
    debris can plug the drains on the rear deck or the drain hoses causing water
    to overflow into the stern stowage area and or onto the cockpit floor.
    Replace the hose and clamps if aged and use a clear hose to easily spot
    obstructions. |  |  | Cockpit Floor 
    
    Hull
    
    Thru Drain: Ensure it is clean and free flowing. Replace the hose and
    clamps if aged and use a clear hose to easily spot obstructions. |  |  | Water Trapped  Water can built up in this area and may not be able
    to drain into the stern stowage area. You can overcome this by installing an
    access port in the cabin or by drilling a drain hole that uses a common boat
    hull drain plug, which that can be inserted and removed at any time. Drill
    the hole about one half inch above the hull through the wood divider. Then
    jack the front of your boat on a trailer, and all the water trapped will
    flow back into the stern stowage area. You can also use a one half inch inch copper pipe taped to a shop vacuum
    to help suck any remaining water out. It is recommended to keep the hold plugged to prevent
    any water back flowing in from the stern stowage area. |  |  | Outboard Motor Bracket: Check around the screws. |  |  | Rudder Pinions: Check around the screws. |  
Under
Hull Areas Checklist: 
  |  | Hull:
     Check the overall condition of the hull, repair any sections in
    doubt that were damaged on any rocks or worn by being beached rubbed with
    fiberglass; lightly wet sand, and then paint using two primer coats and 
    two anti-fowling coats. |  |  | Keel: Check the overall condition of the keel housing, you may have
    to crib up the keel so it won't drop and remove the entire keel housing top
    cover. This is also an excellent time to grease the keel screw.  You
    can also lower the keel for general inspection, wearing, or rubbing marks. |  |  | Trailer: Ensure that rollers are not worn down with
    no sharp steel edges touching or rubbing the hull. |  If
you find no water leaks in any of these areas then your boat has been well taken
care of. As this will ensure that the resale value of your boat remains high.
As who wants to buy and old leaky boat anyways! ;) If you know of any more, send us an email.
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